Beach convo's are good for the soul.
Spending a moment with Ron post his surf chatting life, being too full, finding space and creating room for the things we need to thrive was pretty inspiring and encouraging.
The surf, well, I think the photos make it seem a lot better than what it was. It was still very much a case of being in the right place at the right time. There seems to be no reason of rhythem with how sets are rolling through, and where.
But the sun was the star of the morning (oh hell yeah, a pun)... It was bright, warm and just good to be outside this morning.
If you're featured in a photo and want the high res, let me know via email or Instagram / Facebook. I'm more than happy to share photos of you for you to keep, print, frame etc. You are the hero, i just get to capture the moment.
