A random swing of wind from our regular NW hit the air last night. Seems like it’ll be gone by the afternoon. This also came with a spike in the swell. So sick. 

So we got some punch a frames between 6-7am. Surfers barely getting in a turn before it either closed out, or fattened up. Not idea. 

You’re going to look at these photos and think “heck, what did i miss?”… not much. trust me. It was not good as these moments in time suggest. Wind is predicted to go back to Northerly tomorrow. I’m heading North too. 

If you’re featured in a photo and want the high res, let me know via email or Instagram / Facebook. I’m more than happy to share photos of you for you to keep, print, frame etc. You are the hero, i just get to capture the moment.